1860s, for a change

Jul. 27th, 2017 11:28 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
For lack of anything better to do (ha ha ha), I started work on my 1860s Rational Dress, aka. "is she wearing trousers???" It was mostly mental work - I double and triple-checked all my measurements for skirt lengths and all that, as I'm making a bodice, trousers, knee-length(ish) skirt to go over the trousers, and a normal skirt to go over a hoop (to make sure this doesn't end up being a one-time use outfit)! I had one 2 yd piece and one 4.75 yd piece, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing anything up! So far, so good.

I cut all the lengths and very carefully labeled them; I'll have to piece in the trouser tops from about the hip to the waist...but as they'll always be under the short skirt, that's fine. I then pulled out all my options for the contrast waistcoat and stared at them for about half an hour, trying to decide which one to use. I think I've decided to go with the cream wool over the tan woolen, mainly because I want to make the cuffs and collar out of brown velveteen scraps...and it's the same velveteen and tan wool that I made my paletot out of, which might be a little too much of the same fabrics in one weekend for me. I think the cream option will be very "smart" with the pinkish-toned plaid!

I also cut out a mockup from my base 1860s pattern; I didn't have time to try it on over a corset but I wanted to see if it's going where I want it to. Not really! I couldn't decide whether to pleat or gore the bodice skirts (it has skirts, since it's very jacket-adjacent...I'll post my inspiration tomorrow when I'm not feeling lazy), so I pleated, and that was the wrong choice, haha. Okay, try again tomorrow!

Poetry Meme

Jul. 27th, 2017 10:27 pm
lost_spook: (writing)
[personal profile] lost_spook
I don't seem to have been writing much lately, so I did what I usually do in these circumstances: the poetry meme!

1: Pick five fandoms. List them in alphabetical order.

2: Visit this site to find your first RANDOM POEM OF POWER. Write down the 5th line (yes, even if it's an E.E. Cummings poem and you wind up with an apostrophe). Repeat five times and - you guessed it - list 'em in alphabetical order! (No cheating, mind! This is a challenge and it's always been about creativity.)

3: I think you can see where this is going. Write a very quick 50-word half-drabble for each fandom (try to do it all in one sitting - make your brain explode!), using the line from the poem as a prompt. You don't have to include it in the half-drabble - it's just inspiration.

4: Bravo! Have a cookie.


*noms virtual cookie*

(These are all only 50 words, so I don't think they're really spoilery unless you know stuff already, they're just probably incomprehensible, but possibly for DW S10, Ripper Street S5 and Spooks S10. Ish. I did cheat, because I didn't want a comma, but at least I managed alphabetical order, and my brain also did not explode.)

Results under here: B7, Department S, Doctor Who, Ripper Street, Spooks )

mockup report

Jul. 26th, 2017 11:49 pm
mandie_rw: me in late victorian dress holding book (natformbeige)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I decided to be clever this afternoon, and work on the dinner dress bodice mockup while I had my corset on already. I'd already cut mockup #2 longer when I discovered it to be far too short-waisted (as [personal profile] mala_14  warned me!), so I just had to sew that together and do a try-on.

Hmmmmmm.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

Well...despite adding 3" to the length of the body, and 0.5" to each shoulder seam, the damn thing was still at least 2" too short, possibly more. (Is this pattern for people with a 5" long ribcage or WHAT...is this where the notion of freakishly small Victorians came from?) The armscye was still way too small, and the angle of the shoulder seam was totally whack. I wouldn't expect a scaled pattern to fit me right off the bat, but sheesh, was this pattern made by a paint-huffing monkey? Or maybe it was made for a paint-huffing monkey.

Anywhoodle, I decided I have neither the time nor the inclination to pretty much take it to bits and completely refit it...if I wanted to do that I'd have draped a pattern on Mabel from scratch. I didn't want to do that. Truly Victorian it is! Which always takes some tweaking, but which at least I know aren't made by aforementioned paint-huffing monkeys.

So, til I get hold of that (and since I only ordered my wools from FFC just over a week ago, so who knows when those will show up), it's sew-something-else time! I probably ought to do things like finish the skirt that's been hanging over the back of my chair for a week and a half, but I may start something Gettysburg-related instead.

Beige bodice NEVERMORE

Jul. 26th, 2017 04:14 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I'm even tired of the word "beige" at this point, sheesh. But I'm quite happy with how it came out, and I think it looks loads better than the Ugly Shirtwaist! (Which won't be retired, like, ever, because it's great for hot weather. But now at least I have another option.)

Blog post here
sitting on steps
Amusingly, there was a truck JUST out of frame in all these pics...they were setting up for some sort of event, and there was an enormous truck and trailer just to the left side of the house. And half my pics had some rando in a red t-shirt walking back and forth in the background. Ahhh, gotta love editing! xD

And now I am totally going to be late to work because I wanted to get this all out of the way before I went! Heh.

things

Jul. 25th, 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

beige bodice, one more time

Jul. 24th, 2017 11:46 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

Save

Christmas special trailer

Jul. 24th, 2017 12:16 am
john_amend_all: (crichtardis)
[personal profile] john_amend_all
The trailer for the 2017 DW Christmas special can be found here or here. Thoughts on the trailer )

In other news: I recently discovered that a romance novel author asked P. G. Wodehouse if they could use the name Rosie M. Banks. He said yes. I'm tempted to add the summary to the Generator, perhaps with an explanatory note.

beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



Hat so far

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:22 pm
mala_14: (Default)
[personal profile] mala_14
This is the straw hat after being shaped. Still needs lining and trim. I think I like it, but I'm quite certain I'll like it more with a bunch of crap stuck all over it.


Deborah Watling

Jul. 22nd, 2017 06:41 pm
lost_spook: (Default)
[personal profile] lost_spook
Some more sad news for Doctor Who fans (well, of the Classic variety at least): Deborah Watling has died, aka companion Victoria Waterfield. A lot of people have linked to the clip from Tomb, but it is such a beautiful scene, so I'm going to do it as well:



(Forgive the embed outside the cut this once.)

Victoria was a companion that I always liked the idea of more than what they actually did with her most of the time, but Debbie Watling always seemed pretty lovely, and she had a very good relationship and rapport with both Patrick and Frazer. My old telly adventures have also led to me watching her (at least briefly) appear in The Power Game, along with her father, Jack, who was a regular (a favour which she returned in DW, getting him cast as Professor Travers in two of the Yeti stories).

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

Challenge #663: contain

Jul. 21st, 2017 07:08 pm
redwolf: (dw100)
[personal profile] redwolf posting in [community profile] dw100
Welcome to [community profile] dw100! Challenges are posted approximately once a week.

Challenge #663 is contain.

The rules:
  • All stories must be 100 words long
  • Please place your story behind a cut if it contains spoilers for the current season
  • You don't have to use the challenge word or phrase in your story; it's just there for inspiration
  • Please include the challenge word or phrase in the subject line of your post
  • Please use the challenge tag 663: contain on any story posted to this challenge
Good luck!

Happy Birthday...

Jul. 21st, 2017 09:46 am
lost_spook: (Default)
[personal profile] lost_spook
... to [personal profile] grondfic and [personal profile] kerkevik_2014! I hope you both have an excellent day!

beige bodice again

Jul. 20th, 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Mostly successfully futzed with the beige bodice today to get it to fit - it's not really 100%, but it's vastly better than before. (And when all's said and done...it's not the most attractive print in the world anyway. So.) I will have to put a wedge in the sleeves to get them to fit, but I didn't have to piece in the front of the armscye, so that's good.
beige bodice front
I didn't get around to actually taking the basting stitches out, cutting lining pieces, and sewing the awkward fixer-pieces in properly...but I'm off tomorrow so I can do it then. (It's definitely going to be too hot to wear this bodice if we do go on Sunday, but I'd like to finish it anyway! Just putting it on and taking it off got me all hot and grumpy. I think I need to acknowledge to myself that just 'cause it's cotton, doesn't make it a Philadelphia-summer-appropriate dress...)
beige bodice side
There are some stupid side wrinkles that I don't think will come out even when the side's reboned, but oh well. I'll just consider myself lucky I could get the damn thing to fit at all and call it a day! Not all home sewers in 1880 had perfectly-fitting bodices, right? ;)

beige bodice

Jul. 19th, 2017 11:12 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I finished sewing the hooks and bars on this afternoon before work, but didn't quite have enough time to suit up and start fussing with fit, so indulged in flights of fancy re: my planned turn-of-the-century wardrobe. (My Voice of Fashion and Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques books arrived yesterday, so that helped with the distraction. The latter may be a bit beyond me, but I never mind having something to work up to, and at the very least the pattern shapes will be helpful!) I sincerely doubt I'll have time to throw a dinner dress into the mix, but it's very amusing to plan out!

Tonight I intend to get the buttons sewn on the beige bodice (yes, buttons over hooks...after testing out hooks and bars vs buttons for years, I've come to the conclusion that I generally prefer hooks to fasten tight-fitting victorian bodices! Much less annoying to do up! And then slap the buttons on top), which was delayed by my putting the buttons away while cleaning up a while back. Never put stuff away!

Also: spent money today I totally shouldn't have. But Dita von Teese added Philadelphia to her touring schedule this fall, and the pre-sale went up today...and I just couldn't not go! I'm much more of an enthusiast of Dita's style than necessarily burlesque in general (I think it's cool! but I wouldn't call myself an enthusiast), but I wouldn't turn down an opportunity to see Queen Dita! I texted a college friend who's also a fan..."can we turn this opportunity down??" "NO WE CANNOT!"...so I'll be going with her on September 15th. Woo!

(Well I think I need a new dress...!)

lost_spook: (james maxwell)
[personal profile] lost_spook
To start at the end, as it were, before I forget everything. The theme for this week in my old telly adventures seems to have mainly been Bad Stuff Happening to Planes.*

Ransom, Secret Army & Department S )

slight change of tack

Jul. 18th, 2017 11:39 pm
mandie_rw: (sew all the things!)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
We might go to a Boer War event this weekend at a local-ish fort (if it's not 90F, which it probably will be), so I felt vaguely inspired today to start fixing my beige cotton print bodice instead of continuing on the dinner dress bodice mockup. It's not really wandering very far off, as I want it for Belvidere too...unless it's hot enough that I have to wear the Ugly Shirtwaist yet again.

I can't remember what details I posted about the bad fit of the beige print bodice so I'll recap - basically I used my pattern taken from a fabric mockup that had stretched a lot and I didn't realize (that's what I get for being lazy and not cutting it out on paper the first time I used it, for my first natural form dress a couple years ago!)...so I sewed it almost all together before realizing it totally didn't fit. Not like, oh, I'll just have to add an underlap and put the buttons all the way over, but the CF edges didn't even meet, and the armscye was pinchy at the front. Which I then tried to easy-fix by letting out a dart, fussing with the shoulder seams, and pretending it fit, and I got it pretty close to done before acknowledging that it'd be embarrassing to wear a bodice that fit like that. Which was where I left it the week before Belvidere last year! I knew I'd have to take a good bit of it apart, and Didn't Want To.

So, more recently, I took the step of undoing all the work I needed to, to start fixing the damn thing. Took the collar and sleeves off, unpicked the bottom facing, boning and the waist stay from the side seam and took said seam out. I pinned rough strips of fabric into the let-out seam and tried the thing on with a corset today to check and see if that side-seam-fix would be my best plan. Yup.

It's going to be a very stupidly-shaped piece of fabric once it's fitted, but it'll work. And less obvious than sticking something in CF, which was the only other option (best practice would have been to just recut the fronts, but I don't have enough fabric left for that!). I may have to piece in the front of the armscyes (as I'm a meticulous seam-trimmer, and had already notched/tacked down all the SA, of course) and put a wedge in the sleeve armpit since it was a smooth-fitting sleeve and the armscye might now be too big for it...but maybe not.

I put the second dart back in the fronts, and I'm in the process of sewing on 10,00 hooks & bars, since I think my best plan is to have the closure done before fine-tuning the weirdo side-wedges!

All this and I'm fairly sure it'll be too hot on Sunday to want to go to the fort anyway. But I want this bodice fixed up either way!

One-shot Challenge #54 // Wild Animal

Jul. 18th, 2017 01:04 pm
[identity profile] paynesgrey.livejournal.com posting in [community profile] who_contest
"Wild Animal"

Interpret that however you want.

Word Count requirement is 200 words or more. One entry per person. All entries must be new and relate to this challenge. You may post to the community, link to your journal or off-site. Please make sure your links work. Please read the rules if you do not know them!

Submissions are due Monday August 14th at 9:00 pm US Central time. Voting will go up very soon and the next challenge will be announced after that.

"Wrinkle" Voting

Jul. 18th, 2017 01:02 pm
[identity profile] paynesgrey.livejournal.com posting in [community profile] who_contest
Sorry for the delay!

It's time to vote!

Please take the time to look over the following entries and vote for your favorite three: 1st, 2nd and 3rd places (NO MORE, NO LESS). THERE IS NO VOTING FOR YOURSELF, and only members and watchers may vote.

Please follow the rules on our profile page, vote fairly and do not get sock puppets or your friends to vote for you. Do not ask for votes outside the community. Please leave your votes as a comment to this post. The votes are all screened. All members are encouraged to vote, even those who did not post an entry. Please help our community stay active by reading and voting!

Vote like so:

1st - B. title, author
2nd - A. title, author
3rd - C. title, author

You must use the letter, title, and author when voting. Please use all three; it's much easier to tally that way. My voting system is simple: first place gets 3 points, 2nd place gets 2 points, and 3rd places gets 1 point when added up at the end.

The entries:

A. Decompression by [livejournal.com profile] templeremus

B. Survival Lines by [livejournal.com profile] gallif_migrant

C. You are Beautiful by [livejournal.com profile] roseglade

D. Even the Bees have gone by [livejournal.com profile] matimae03

E. Future Tense by [livejournal.com profile] locker_monster

Voting will end on Sunday July 23rd 9 p.m. Central US Time, or until we get enough votes. Winners will be announced the next day and then winning banners will be up some time within the next week. Please vote and leave comments for our authors!

Please, please, PLEASE, find time to vote. It's not required for authors to vote but it's really helpful to all the other participants that DO read and vote to have a fair chance. I know it's not mandatory (and I've been considering changing that) but I really hope that I can have enough faith in you guys for full participation of this contest that means entering (if inspired), reading, commenting and voting. It really helps the community stay alive. Thank you so much!

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